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Scottish Highland cattle

The Scottish Highland is one of the oldest breeds of cattle in the world. Going as far back in time as the sixth century, some historians believe the ancestors of today’s Scottish Highland may have come to Scottish shores from Scandinavia with the Vikings.

Many of today’s Highland breeders subscribe to the theory that the Scottish Highland resulted from the crossing of two ancient Asiatic breeds of cattle called the Bos Longifronsm and the Bos Primigenius. From the Bos Longifronsm the Highland got its long horns, and from the Bos Primigenius, its profuse coat.
However the breed originated, the Scottish Highland obtained many of its characteristics in the Highlands and west coastal islands of Scotland. Exposed to North Atlantic gales and a very severe winter climate, the Scottish Highland evolved to be a tough, self-sufficient breed.

Scottish breeders of the subsequent centuries recognized these invaluable traits in their cattle, and worked to preserve them. Crofters, small farmers who lived in the Scottish high country, relied on the Scottish Highland for survival. The breed’s milk, meat and hair were a source of sustenance for these farmers, and the calves were a valued trade commodity within Scotland and in England.

Although most of today’s Scottish Highland cattle are red or yellow in color, most of the old-time Highland cattle were black. Called Kyloes, these cattle were found mostly on the islands and were on the smaller side. West Highlands, on the other hand, were larger and lived on the mainland. Their reddish coats predominate in modern examples of the breed.

In 1884, the Scottish Highland Cattle Society was formed in the United Kingdom to help preserve the purity of the Scottish Highland breed. Since that time, breed associations have been formed for the Scottish Highland in the United States, Canada, Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Australia and New Zealand.

Breeds Of Pigs

While this index is not 100% complete for all breeds, nor does it contain all the information available for all breeds, it does give you an idea of what you are looking for when you go to purchase a pig. This is where it gets a little tricky. Some highly crossed pigs will resemble a specific breed. It is in your best interest to see both parents before purchasing a pig for breeding. 

Berkshire
A Berkshire shall be:

A black and white animal with erect ears exhibiting Berkshire character.
A Berkshire must have white on all four legs, face and tail (unless tail is docked). One of the white leg points may also be missing.
Must be ear notched within seven days of birth.( This goes for all pigs requiring ear notches)
A Berkshire must NOT have a solid white or a solid black face from the ears forward.
A Berkshire must NOT have a solid black nose.
White is allowed on the ears, but NO solid white may appear on the ears.
Occasional splash of white may appear on the body.
The Berkshire, as seen above, has a few characteristic traits that makes them stand out.

Mulefoot

Mulefoot hogs as mainly black, with occasional animals having white points; medium flop ears; and a soft hair coat

1. Solid, non-cloven hoof.
2. Solid black.( a few white points accepted.)
3. Medium pricked ears. Falling forward not covering the entire face.

Tamworth

The other red pig. Most notable about the Tamworth breed is it’s ability to forage for itself. The Tamworth are originally from central England in the counties of Stafford, Warwick, Leicester, and
Northhampton. While the color may resemble that of a Duroc, the Tamworth is not to be confused with it’s red cousin.
Tamworth Pig Standards
1.Golden-red, abundant, straight and fine and as free from black hairs as possible.
2. Face slightly dished, wide between the ears, jowl light.
3. Ears, large and erect
4. Black hair and black spots are objectionable.

Large Black

 The large Black is known for it’s ability to raise large litters out of doors while being excellent foragers.
Large Black Pig Standards
1. Solid Black snout to tail
2. Large lop ears covering the eyes
3. Long strait face and snout4. Long deep bodies


Hereford

The life blood of our Hereford Breed of hogs is its breeders. Breeders progress and prosperity depend on the kind of hogs raised.
Color Description Updated:
To be eligible for registration they must have 2/3 white face and 2/3 red body. They can not have any white beyond the middle of the shoulders and over the back. They can not have any belt. They must have at least 3 white legs 1 inch high and must go all the way around the leg.

Poland China

Poland China’s are sort of a mystery pig. While the breed can be traced back to a few Ohio counties, it is not known exactly which breeds influenced the creation of the Poland China. Pigs during this era needed to be large and travel easy to get themselves to market.
Poland Chinas fit the bill perfectly.
Poland China Breed Standards:
1: Must be black with six white points (face, feet and switch) with an occasional splash of white on the body. A hog may not possess more than one (1) solid black leg and be determined as a Poland China.
2: Must have ears down (floppy)
3: Must not have evidence of a belt formation.
4: Can not have red or sandy hair / and or pigment.

Chester White

Chester Whites are classified as Heritage Hogs and are known for superior mothering abilities, durability, and soundness.
Chester White Breed Standards:
1: Must be completely white
2: Possesses a dished face
3: has medium fall floppy ears
4: has a full thick coat

You can see in the image that the Chester White’s ears do not lay fully flat over the eyes. Also the Chester White is typically a more pure white hog when compared to Yorkshires and Landrace. Chester Whites have been preferred by packing houses for their superior muscle and white skin which dresses out to a light pink. The Chester White is
known as a Heritage Breed.

Landrace

Landrace are white in color. Their ears droop and slant forward with its top edges nearly parallel to the bridge of a straight nose. Landrace, which are noted for their ability to farrow and raise large litters, are the fifth most recorded breed of swine in the United States.

Landrace Breed Markings and Registration Requirements
No animal to be used for breeding purpose shall be eligible to record:
1. On which there is any hair other than white on any part of the animal’s body
2. Which has upright ears
3. Which has less than six functional teats on each side of the underline or has any inverted teats
4. Where an animal shows evidence of an extra dewclaw. Black spots in the skin are very objectionable and any large spots or numerous black spots located on any part of the hog makes the pig ineligible for registry.
However, a small amount of black pigmentation is allowed on the body of the animal.

Hampshire

Hampshire s are one of the oldest breeds in America. They have erect ears ( meaning they stand straight up). First let’s look at the qualifications of the breed.

Hampshire boars and gilts must meet the requirements (except color markings) along with the following to be eligible to show in a breeding animal class.
1. Black in color with a white belt totally encircling the body including both front legs and feet. Animal can have white on its nose as long as the white does not break the rim of the nose and when its mouth is closed, the white under the chin can NOT exceed what a U.S. minted quarter will cover. White is allowed on the rear legs as long as it does NOT extend above the tuber calis bone (knob of the hock).
2. Must have at least six (6) functional udder sections on each side of the underline.
3. Animals farrowed on or after January 1, 2005, the swirl is no longer a disqualification for registration.

Duroc

The color marking of all Duroc breeding hogs for registration shall be red.
(1) white feet or white spots on any part of the body with the exception of the end of the nose;
(2) black spots, no more than three, none over two inches in diameter on the body;
(3) ridgeling (one testicle) boar;
(4) less than six functional udder sections on each side of the underline.

Yorkshire

Breed Markings and Registration Requirements
The presence of one or more of the following disqualifies Yorkshire pigs from registry:
1. Less than six teats on a side
2. Any hair other than white on any part of the animal’s body
3. Total blindness
4. Hernia or ruptures
5. Hermaphroditism
6. Cryptorchidism
7. One testicle or any pronounced abnormal condition of the testicles
8. Black spots in the skin are very objectionable and any large spots or
numerous black spots located on any part of the hog makes the pig
ineligible for registry
9. Evidence of an extra dewclaw. However, a small amount of black
pigmentation is allowed on the body of the animal.

How to Feed Goats

Feed is the largest cost associated with raising goats. It can affect herd reproduction, milk production and kid growth. Late gestation and lactation are critical periods for doe nutrition. Nutrition level determines kids growth rates. Goats not receiving adequate nutrition are more prone to disease and will fail to reach their full potential.

Goats require energy, protein, vitamins, fiber and water. Energy is the most limiting nutrient, while protein is the most expensive. Imbalances of vitamins and minerals can limit animal performance and lead to various health problems. Fiber maintains a healthy rumen enviroment and prevents digestive disturbances. Inadequate water intake can cause various health problems.

WATER - Water is the cheapest feed ingredient and often the most neglected. Goats should have free access to clean fresh water at all times. It is critical that they have an adequate supply of water in the Winter months. A mature goat will consume between 3/4 to 1 1/2 gallons of water per day.

PASTURE AND BROWSE- Pasture and browse are the most economical source of nutrients for goats. Pasture tends to be high in energy and protein in its vegetative state. As the pasture plants mature the palatability and digestibility decline, making it important to rotate pastures to keep plants in a vegetative state. Some of the best pastures for goats are Bahiagrass, millet, sorghum, sudan grass and a mixture of a grain, grass and clover. During the early part of grazing season, browse tends to be higher in protein than ordinary pasture. Goats are natural browsers and select plants at their most nutritious state. Goats that browse have less problems with internal parasites.

HAY- Hay is the primary source of nutrients for goats during the winter months. Hay varies in quality and the only way to know the nutritional content is to have it analyzed by a forage testing laboratory. Legume hays- alfalfa, clover, lespedeza- tend to be higher in protein; this also depends on which cutting it is.

Briers and such - Goats love eating multifloral rose bushes, green briers, poison ivy and just about every type of unwanted brush located on your property. Many herds are used specifally to "clean" up overgrown property, which can be more economical than hiring people to do the job.


VITAMINS AND MINERALS- Many mierals are required by goats. The most important are salt, calcium and phosphorus. Vitamins are needed in small amounts. Goats require vitamins A, D, and E. Offer a pre-mix of loose minerals free choice; goats will consume more if loose is available.

GRAIN- It is often necessary to feed grains when forage alone cannot provide enough nutrients. CREEP FEEDING and supplemental feeding of kids does increase growth weight, but should only be done to the extent that increases profits. There are two types of feed- carbon and protein. Carbon or 'energy' feeds include cereal grains- corn, barley, wheat, oats, milo, and rye- various by products feeds such as fat, soybean hulls and wheat middlings. Protein supplements may be of animal or plant origin and include soybean meal, cottonseed meal and fish meal. 14% CP to 16% CP will usually fill the nutritional requirement for various classes of goats.

The Best Way to Select and Store Corn

From a food safety standpoint, we recommend selection of corn that has not been exposed to any substantial amount of heat. Exposure to excess heat can increase the susceptibility of fresh corn to microbial contamination. If you are shopping in the grocery store, your safest bet is corn that is being displayed in a refrigerated produce bin. Next safest would be corn that, while not refrigerated, is still being displayed in a cool store location, out of direct sun and not near a heat source. These same recommendations apply for corn in a farmer's market or roadside stand. Here display of corn in the shade and out of direct sunlight can be important from a food safety standpoint.

Look for corn whose husks are fresh and green and not dried out. They should envelope the ear and not fit too loosely around it. To examine the kernels, gently pull back on part of the husk. The kernels should be plump and tightly arranged in rows. Due to changes that have occurred over time in commercial corn production, corn has become a food where quality is especially important. Over 70% of all corn found in U.S. grocery stores has been genetically modified in the form of herbicide-tolerant, or HT corn, or the form of insect-resistant, or Bt corn. (Bt corn gets its name from the transfer of a gene from the soil bacterium, Bacillus thuringiensis, into the corn. A protein toxin produced by this bacterium helps to kill certain insects that might otherwise eat the corn.) While there is no large scale human research on GE corn and its health impact, we share the concern of many researchers about the introduction of novel proteins into food and their potential for increasing risk of adverse reactions, including food allergies. One way to avoid these potential GE risks is to select certified organic corn, since GE modifications are not allowed in certified organic food.

Traditionally to enjoy the optimal sweetness of fresh corn, it was recommended to eat it the day of purchase. New varieties allow you 3 days to still enjoy its full flavor. Store corn in an air-tight container or tightly wrapped plastic bag in the refrigerator if you do not intend to cook it on the day of purchase. Do not remove its husk since this will protect its flavor. Fresh corn freezes well if placed in heavy-duty freezer bags. To prepare whole ears for freezing, blanch them first for five minutes depending. If you just want to freeze the kernels, first blanch the ears and then cut the kernels off the cob at about three-quarters of their depths. Frozen whole corn on the cob will keep for up to one year, while the kernels can be frozen for two to three months.

7 Secrets for a High-Yield Vegetable Garden

Yields like these are easier to achieve than you may think. The secret to super productive gardening is taking the time now to plan strategies that will work for your garden. Here are seven high-yield strategies learned from gardeners who have learned to make the most of their garden space.

1. Build up your soil.

Expert gardeners agree that building up the soil is the single most important factor in pumping up yields. A deep, organically rich soil encourages the growth of healthy, extensive roots that are able to reach more nutrients and water. The result: extra-lush, extra-productive growth above ground.

The fastest way to get that deep layer of fertile soil is to make raised beds. Raised beds yield up to four times more than the same amount of space planted in rows. That’s due not only to their loose, fertile soil but also to efficient spacing—by using less space for paths, you have more room to grow plants.

Raised beds save you time, too. One researcher tracked the time it took to plant and maintain a 30-by-30-foot garden planted in beds, and found that he needed to spend just 27 hours in the garden from mid-May to mid-October. Yet he was able to harvest 1,900 pounds of fresh vegetables—that’s a year’s supply of food for three people from about 3 total days of work!

How do raised beds save so much time? Plants grow close enough together to shade out competing weeds, so you spend less time weeding. The close spacing also makes watering and harvesting more efficient.

2. Round out your beds.

The shape of your beds can make a difference, too. Raised beds are more space-efficient if the tops are gently rounded to form an arc, rather than flat. A rounded bed that is 5 feet wide across its base, for instance, will give you a 6-foot-wide arc above it—creating a planting surface that’s a foot wider than that of a flat bed. That foot might not seem like much, but multiply it by the length of your bed and you’ll see that it can make a big difference in total planting area.

In a 20-foot-long bed, for example, rounding the top increases your total planting area from 100 to 120 square feet. That’s a 20 percent gain in planting space in a bed that takes up the same amount of ground space! Lettuce, spinach, and other greens are perfect crops for planting on the edges of a rounded bed.

3. Space smartly.

To get the maximum yields from each bed, pay attention to how you arrange your plants. Avoid planting in square patterns or rows. Instead, stagger the plants by planting in triangles (as shown here). By doing so, you can fit 10 to 14 percent more plants in each bed.

Just be careful not to space your plants too tightly. Some plants won’t reach their full size—or yield—when crowded. For instance, when one researcher increased the spacing between romaine lettuces from 8 to 10 inches, the harvest weight per plant doubled. (Remember that weight yield per square foot is more important than the number of plants per square foot.)

Overly tight spacing can also stress plants, making them more susceptible to diseases and insect attack.

4. Grow up!

No matter how small your garden, you can grow more by going vertical. Grow space-hungry vining crops—such as tomatoes, pole beans, peas, squash, melons, cukes, and so on—straight up, supported by trellises, fences, cages, or stakes.

Growing vegetables vertically also saves time. Harvest and maintenance go faster because you can see exactly where the fruits are. And upward-bound plants are less likely to be hit by fungal diseases thanks to the improved air circulation around the foliage.

Try growing vining crops on trellises along one side of raised beds, using sturdy end posts with nylon mesh netting or string in between to provide a climbing surface. Tie the growing vines to the trellis. But don’t worry about securing heavy fruits—even squash and melons will develop thicker stems for support.

5. Mix it up.

Interplanting compatible crops saves space, too. Consider the classic Native American combination, the “three sisters”—corn, beans, and squash. Sturdy cornstalks support the pole beans, while squash grows freely on the ground below, shading out competing weeds. This combination works because the crops are compatible. Other compatible combinations include tomatoes, basil, and onions; leaf lettuce and peas or brassicas; carrots, onions, and radishes; and beets and celery. 

6. Succeed with successions.

Succession planting allows you to grow more than one crop in a given space over the course of a growing season. That way, many gardeners are able to harvest three or even four crops from a single area.

For instance, an early crop of leaf lettuce can be followed with a fast-maturing corn, and the corn followed by more greens or overwintered garlic—all within a single growing season.

To get the most from your succession plantings:

Use transplants. A transplant is already a month or so old when you plant it, and so will mature that much faster than a direct-seeded plant (one grown from seeds sown in the garden).

Choose fast-maturing varieties.

Replenish the soil with a ¼-to-½-inch layer of compost (about 2 cubic feet per 100 square feet) each time you replant. Work it into the top few inches of soil.

7. Stretch your season.

Adding a few weeks to each end of the growing season can buy you enough time to grow yet another succession crop—say a planting of leaf lettuce, kale, or turnips—or to harvest more end-of-the-season tomatoes.

To get those extra weeks of production, you need to keep the air around your plants warm, even when the weather is cold, by using mulches, cloches, row covers, or coldframes.

Or give heat-loving crops (such as melons, peppers, and eggplants) an extra-early start by using two “blankets”—one to warm the air and one to warm the soil in early spring. About 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date, preheat cold soil by covering it with either infrared-transmitting (IRT) mulch or black plastic, which will absorb heat. Then, cover the bed with a slitted, clear plastic tunnel. When the soil temperature reaches 65° to 70°F, set out plants and cover the black plastic mulch with straw to keep it from trapping too much heat. Remove the clear plastic tunnel when the air temperature warms and all danger of frost has passed. Install it again at the end of the season, when temperatures cool.

Carrot - the second most popular vegetable in the world !

There are two distinct categories of carrot in the modern world, the Cultivated Carrot (domesticated) and the Wild Carrot .

The cultivated carrot is the second most popular vegetable in the world after the potato. When you read the nutrition pages you will see and agree why it should be number one. The health benefits of carrots are well established and cover a wide range in human health conditions. In general, carrots are important for healthy eyes, skin, hair, growth, and immune systems. They can lower cholesterol, prevent heart attacks, and help reduce the risk of certain types of cancers. Carrots are packed with nutrients. 

In fact in England the carrot is Number One according to a survey carried out by the National Trust in 2002. Overall, 17% of the 2,carrots of many colors031 people in the survey opted for the carrot. It came ahead of the potato (15%) and broccoli (13%) in a battle of the vegetable patch. Least favourites by those questioned were Brussels Sprouts, Parsnip, Swede and Turnip.

The carrot plant is cultivated across the world for its prized taproot. The plant is biennial and bears flowers during the second year of its life. However, in general, the whole plant is harvested prematurely when the root reaches about an inch in diameter, tender and juicy. Carrots vary widely in colour and shape depending on the cultivar types. The colours are shown in the photo below and shapes and typologies lower down.

Daucus is a worldwide genus of herbaceous plants of the family Apiaceae of which the best-known species is the cultivated carrot. Daucus genus of Umbelliferae Apiaceae, has about 25 species.

The cultivated carrot, hybridised from the wild carrot, can be either an annual (mainly in tropical areas) or a biennial (mainly in temperate areas). It is an erect herb of 20-50 cm tall when mature, and 120-150 cm when flowering. The taproot is fleshy, straight, conical to cylindrical, 5-50 cm long and 2-5 cm in diameter at the top, and usually orange (other colours include: purple, yellow, or white). Daucus Carota is a complex species, botanically comprising both wild and cultivated carrots.